Shrimp-Safe Tank Mates: Who Can Live with Neocaridina and Caridina?

Shrimp tank mate and Rasbora Wander Within Life

Once you fall in love with shrimp, the next thought is often:

“Can I add fish… or will they just eat everyone?”

The honest answer is still the same:

Anything with a mouth big enough can eat shrimp.
Even tiny fish will happily snack on shrimplets if they find them.

So this guide doesn’t promise “100% safe” fish.
Instead, it shows:

How to think about risk.
Specific examples of rasboras, tetras, algae eaters, and others.
Why some species are “shrimp-friendlier” than others.
Where Neocaridina and Caridina fit in.

If you’re still choosing which shrimp to start with, you can read Neocaridina vs Caridina: which shrimp should I start with?

You can use it as a reference before choosing tank mates for your shrimp.

Short Answer

If your main goal is a strong shrimp colony:

Safest choice: shrimp + snails only.
Fish will almost always reduce shrimplet (baby shrimp) survival.

If you still want shrimp + fish:

Pick small, peaceful nano fish.
Use a heavily planted tank with moss and hiding spots.
Accept that shrimplets will become part of the food chain.

In general:

Neocaridina + nano fish in tap water = more options.
Caridina in soft, acidic water = often shrimp-only, or shrimp + snails + very carefully chosen tiny fish (like chili rasboras or otocinclus) in a mature tank.

How to Think About Tank Mate Risk

Before we list names, a few simple rules help more than any “safe list”:

Mouth size vs shrimp size
- Adults may be ignored by small fish.
- Shrimps the size of eyelashes (newborns) are food for almost anything.
Hunting style
- Calm midwater grazers = better.
- Fast, curious hunters = more risk.
Layout of the tank
- Bare tank = easy hunting.
- Moss, plants, wood, leaf litter = shrimplet jungle gym.
Your priority
- “I want as many shrimp as possible” → keep it shrimp-focused.
- “I want a mixed community with some shrimp” → fish can be added, but breeding success drops.

Keep reminding yourself:

“There is no zero-risk fish. I’m choosing my risk level, not escaping it.”

Safest Companions: Snails and Shrimp-Only Tanks

Snails

Most common aquarium snails are excellent shrimp companions:

Nerite snails – great algae eaters, don’t reproduce in freshwater.
Ramshorn snails – good clean-up crew, will multiply if there’s extra food.
Malaysian trumpet snails – stir the substrate, useful in deeper sand/gravel.
Bladder snails – tiny but effective leftover food detectors.

They:

Do not hunt shrimp.
Help clean up algae and leftover food.
Add movement without adding stress.

Shrimp-only setups

A pure shrimp tank with snails is:

The safest for shrimplets.
Easier to feed (everything is slow-moving).
Easier to observe shrimp behaviour.

If you want to see a full example, here’s my natural shrimp tank – Neocaridina (how I set mine up).

You can always start shrimp-only, learn what “relaxed shrimp” look like, then later set up a second tank for shrimp + fish.

Rasboras: Tiny Schooling Fish for Shrimp Tanks

Rasboras are popular because many species stay small and peaceful.

In general, they work best when:

Kept in a school (8–10+ fish).
In a planted tank with soft to neutral water.
You accept that shrimplets are part of the ecosystem.

1. Chili Rasbora (Boraras brigittae)

Size: ~2 cm
Behaviour: Shy, peaceful, mid-to-upper water.
Water: Soft to slightly acidic; similar to many Caridina setups, but also fine with softer Neocaridina tap water.

Why they’re shrimp-friendly:

Very small mouth → adults shrimp are usually ignored.
They often stay in the mid/upper water, while shrimp are on surfaces and substrate.
In heavily planted tanks, many shrimplets still survive.

Things to keep in mind:

They do best in groups of at least 10–12.
They like gentle flow and shaded areas from floating plants.
In very bare tanks, they may become bolder and hunt more.

Chili rasbora are a good choice for:

Caridina shrimp tanks where parameters match.
Neocaridina tanks with neutral-ish water.
Aquascapes that already have lots of fine plants and moss.

2. Rasbora hengeli / Lambchop Rasbora (Trigonostigma hengeli)

Often sold as hengeli rasbora, lambchop rasbora, or sometimes mixed with harlequin rasbora.

Size: ~3 cm
Behaviour: Peaceful schooling fish, midwater.
Water: Neutral to slightly acidic; works well in many Neocaridina tap-water tanks.

Why they can work with shrimp:

Still relatively small-bodied.
Peaceful temperament; they’re not specialised hunters.
In a heavily planted tank, adults mostly ignore full-grown shrimp.

Risks:

Bigger than chili rasboras → easier for them to eat shrimplets.
Adults will likely pick off babies they find in open areas or on bare substrate.

Good if:

You want a more visible, active school than tiny Boraras.
You’re okay with lower shrimplet survival, but still want a shrimp presence.

If you’re planning a planted shrimp tank, you can check my aquarium plants: simple guide to what I actually use.

3. Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)

Size: ~4–5 cm
Behaviour: Peaceful but larger and bolder.

They are often recommended as community fish, but for shrimp:

Adults may eat not just shrimplets, but also smaller juveniles.
In general, consider them on the risky side for shrimp-focused tanks.

If you choose them:

Use a larger tank (60 cm+).
Treat it as a fish tank that has shrimp, not a shrimp-breeding tank.
Provide dense planting and moss if you hope for any shrimplets to survive.

Tetras: Which Ones Work Best with Shrimp?

Tetras are a huge group, so we’ll focus on a few common nano species.

1. Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae)

Size: ~2 cm
Behaviour: Peaceful, small, active schooling fish.
Water: Soft, slightly acidic to neutral.

Why many shrimp keepers like them:

Very small size, similar to microrasboras.
Peaceful nature; they don’t target adult shrimp.
Bright orange-red colour contrasts nicely with green plants and blue/red shrimp.

But still:

They will eat shrimplets they can find.
Thick plants and moss help a lot if you hope to keep a breeding colony.

Ember tetras are a good choice if:

You want a bright school of fish without going too big.
You’re okay trading some shrimplet survival for the movement of fish.

2. Green Neon and Neon Tetras

(Paracheirodon simulans / innesi)

Size: ~2–3.5 cm
Behaviour: Schooling midwater fish.

For shrimp:

Adults: usually leave bigger shrimp alone.
Shrimplets: high chance of becoming snacks, especially in open tanks.
Neon-type tetras are a bit more active than embers and may investigate more.

They can work if:

Tank is heavily planted and on the larger side.
You treat it as a fish-first tank with shrimp as a bonus.

3. Cardinal Tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi)

Size: ~4–5 cm
Behaviour: Peaceful, but larger body and mouth.

Cardinals are beautiful, but in shrimp-focused setups they’re usually:

Too big.
Too efficient at picking off small shrimplets.

They are better in:

Classic community tanks with just a few adult shrimp as cleaners and background life.
Not ideal as “shrimp tank mates” if your main goal is breeding.

Bottom Dwellers: Pygmy Corydoras and Friends

1. Pygmy Corydoras (Corydoras pygmaeus, habrosus, hastatus)

Size: ~2–3 cm
Behaviour: Small schooling bottom fish; gentle and active.

Why they’re often considered shrimp-friendly:

Mouth is small and turned downward for picking food off the substrate.
They don’t actively hunt shrimp; they mostly search for leftover food.
Adults shrimp are usually safe.

But:

If a shrimplet is right in front of their face, they may still eat it.
Bare-bottom or very open tanks make it easier for them to “find” shrimplets.

Best case:

Fine substrate (sand), lots of moss, leaf litter, and plant cover.
Group of 6+ pygmy corys.
You accept some shrimplet losses, but not a total wipe-out.

2. Other Corydoras and Bottom Fish

Larger Corydoras species and many loaches (like kuhli loaches):

Have bigger mouths.
Explore every surface and crevice.
Are more likely to eat shrimplets regularly.

In shrimp-focused tanks, they’re usually not recommended unless:

Your priority is the fish.
Shrimp are just a side colony.

Algae Eaters: Otocinclus, Amano Shrimp, and Nerites

1. Otocinclus Catfish (Otos)

Size: ~3–4 cm
Behaviour: Very peaceful algae grazers.
Water: Prefer clean, mature tanks with stable parameters.

Why they’re loved in shrimp tanks:

Mouth is designed for scraping algae off surfaces, not grabbing prey.
Many keepers report otos as one of the few fish that ignore shrimp completely, even babies.
They stay calm and small, and don’t disturb shrimp much.

Important care notes:

Need to be in a group (3–6 or more, depending on tank size).
Require a mature, algae-rich tank; they often starve in new tanks.
Sensitive to poor water quality and sudden changes.

If your tank is young and still unstable, add shrimp first, then otos later when you see a steady film of algae and biofilm.

2. Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)

Amano shrimp are larger, strong algae eaters. As tank mates:

They don’t cross-breed with Neocaridina or Caridina bee shrimp.
They can outcompete smaller shrimp at feeding spots.
They may grab weak or freshly molted shrimp if very hungry (rare but possible).

They’re great if:

You want natural algae control.
You’re okay that the tank is more “busy” and competitive at feeding time.

They’re less ideal if:

Your goal is a calm, slow colony of tiny shrimp where everyone always gets first pick of food.

3. Nerite Snails (and Other Snails)

Nerites are almost perfect for shrimp tanks:

Great algae cleaners.
Can’t breed in freshwater.
Never hunt shrimp.

Ramshorn, trumpet, and bladder snails also help as part of the clean-up crew.

Fish to Avoid or Treat with Extra Caution

These are general groups where risk for shrimp is higher.

Bettas

Personalities vary a lot.
Some bettas ignore shrimp, others hunt every last one.
Even a “calm” betta may start targeting shrimp later.

If you try it, accept that:

You might end up with a betta tank that used to have shrimp.

Guppies, Mollies, and Many Livebearers

Always hungry.
Very curious and fast.
Excellent at eating shrimplets and even smaller juveniles.

Better to keep them in their own tank and enjoy shrimp elsewhere.

Larger Barbs, Gourami, and Cichlids

Too big.
Too active or territorial.
Too good at eating anything that moves.

Generally not compatible with a serious shrimp project.

Neocaridina vs Caridina: Tank Mate Options

Neocaridina

Usually kept in:

Neutral to slightly alkaline tap water.
Medium hardness.

This overlaps with many community fish, so:

You have more options for fish tank mates (rasboras, tetras, otos, pygmy corys).
Shrimp-only still gives the best breeding, but mixed setups are very common.

Caridina (Bee/Taiwan Bee types)

Often kept in:

Soft, slightly acidic RO water.
Low KH, controlled GH.
Active soil.

Fewer fish enjoy those exact conditions.

Common choices:

Shrimp-only tanks with snails.
Very carefully chosen tiny fish (e.g. chili rasboras, otocinclus) in mature, stable setups, and usually in larger tanks.

Designing a Shrimp-Friendly Layout

No matter what fish you pick, your scape protects shrimp more than any promise on a species list.

Include:

Moss (java, Christmas, etc.)
→ Perfect for shrimplets to hide and graze.
Fine-leaved plants (stem plants, subwassertang, etc.)
→ Create dense, safe “forests”.
Hardscape with gaps (rock and wood stacks)
→ Small caves and cracks only shrimp can enter.
Leaf litter (catappa, guava, etc.)
→ Hiding places + biofilm + natural food.

Leaf litter (catappa, guava, etc.) – hiding places + biofilm in aquariums – that thin layer of life on every surface + natural food.

If you like long-term, low-tech setups, my deep substrate aquarium setup guide explains how I build tanks that age slowly and stay stable.

Feeding Strategy in Mixed Tanks

Feeding can lower the pressure on shrimp:

Spread the food
- Put shrimp food in 2–3 places.
- Use one “shrimp corner” under moss or a small cave where fish rarely go.
Small portions, more often
- Prevents overfeeding and keeps water quality better.
- Stops fish from being constantly starving and hunting shrimplets.
Let the tank grow its own food

Encourage algae, biofilm in aquarium, and microfauna on wood, rocks, and leaves.
This “invisible buffet” supports shrimplets even if they are too shy to come out at feeding time.

If your tank is still young and you want to build up more natural grazing, you can accelerate biofilm production for shrimp tanks before adding a lot of fish.

Simple “Recipes” for Shrimp + Fish Tanks

These are just ideas to give the reader a feel for combinations.

1. Shrimp Colony First (Beginner-Friendly)

Neocaridina shrimp
Snails (nerite + a few ramshorns)
No fish

Focus: learning shrimp behaviour, breeding, water stability.

2. Shrimp + Algae Eaters

Neocaridina shrimp
Group of otocinclus (in a mature, planted tank)
Snails

Focus: shrimp colony + gentle fish movement + algae control.

3. Shrimp + Tiny Schooling Fish

Option A (soft/acidic lean):

Caridina shrimp
Chili rasbora (10–12+)
Snails

Option B (neutral/harder):

Neocaridina shrimp
Ember tetras (10–12+)
Snails

Focus: soft movement in the middle water, shrimp in the lower and on hardscape, some shrimplet loss accepted.

Gentle Closing Thought

Shrimp are soft, slow, and small.
Most fish are faster, stronger, and always a little hungry.

There is no perfect, risk-free combination.
There is only the balance that fits your:

Goals (colony vs community).
Tank size and layout.
Patience with planting and hiding places.

It’s completely okay to keep shrimp-only tanks and enjoy their quiet world.
It’s also okay to add carefully chosen fish and accept a more “wild” food web.

Wander Within Life

Sunday, December 14, 2025