Java fern is one of those plants that quietly minds its own business.
It grows slowly, doesn’t demand fancy equipment, and gives shrimp a lot of places to sit, hide, and graze.
Here’s how I keep Java fern healthy in a simple tap-water setup.
Quick Profile
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Scientific name: Microsorum pteropus
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Type: Rhizome plant (grows from a thick horizontal “stem”)
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Placement: Mid-ground / background, attached to wood or rocks
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Light: Low to moderate
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CO₂: Not required
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Growth speed: Slow
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Good for shrimp? Yes – great for grazing and hiding
Where I Like to Put Java Fern
Java fern looks nicest when it’s attached, not planted in the soil.
I like to:
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Tie it on driftwood branches so the leaves flow in the current
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Attach it to rocks at the back corners or mid-ground
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Combine it with moss or Anubias so the whole hardscape feels more “aged”
Because it grows slowly, I use it as a stable “anchor” plant in the layout.
Fast growers like stems can change quickly; Java fern stays calm and steady.
Water Conditions It Tolerates
Java fern is pretty forgiving in normal Indonesian/Malaysian tap water:
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Temperature: 22–28°C
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pH: around 6.0–7.8
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GH/KH: Soft to moderately hard water is okay
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Flow: Gentle to moderate – it doesn’t like being blasted directly
As long as your parameters are already comfortable for shrimp or small fish, Java fern usually adapts well. I focus more on stable water than chasing perfect numbers.
Light and Algae Balance
Java fern doesn’t need strong light. In fact, too much light without enough nutrients can cause algae on the leaves.
What works for me:
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A moderate LED with around 7–8 hours of light per day
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Avoiding direct light hitting only the fern’s leaves while everything else is dark
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Letting shrimp and snails help clean small algae spots over time
If you see the leaves turning dark and covered with hair algae, it’s often a sign of too much light and too few nutrients in the water column.
How to Attach Java Fern Properly
1. Prepare the plant
When you get Java fern:
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Rinse it gently in tank water
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Remove any mushy, transparent, or blackened leaves
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Keep the rhizome (the thick horizontal “stem”) firm and greenish
2. Never bury the rhizome
This is the most important rule:
The rhizome must stay above the substrate.
Only the fine roots can touch or go into sand/soil.
If you bury the rhizome, it often rots and the whole plant slowly dies.
3. Methods to attach
You can use:
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Cotton thread or fishing line
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Super glue gel type (aquarium-safe once dry)
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Small cable ties (cut later once roots grip)
Basic steps:
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Place the rhizome against the wood or rock.
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Wrap thread gently around it a few times – not too tight.
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After several weeks, the roots will grab the surface and you can remove the thread if you want.
Fertilizing: Do I Need It?
Java fern can survive in very low-tech tanks with almost no dosing, especially if:
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There are some fish or shrimp producing waste
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You do regular but not extreme water changes
However, for better growth and nicer green leaves, it appreciates:
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A light all-in-one liquid fertilizer once or twice a week
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Some potassium (K) to prevent pinholes in leaves
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Trace micronutrients (including a bit of iron)
Because I keep shrimp, I prefer small, consistent doses instead of heavy dosing:
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Start low, watch for plant response and algae
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Increase slowly only if the leaves stay pale or show clear deficiencies
No root tabs are needed for Java fern because it feeds mainly from the water column, not from the soil.
Propagating Java Fern
Java fern is slow, but it’s generous if you’re patient.
It can propagate in two main ways:
1. Splitting the rhizome
Once the rhizome becomes long and thick:
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Take the plant out gently.
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Use sharp scissors to cut the rhizome into 2–3 pieces.
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Each piece should have several leaves and roots.
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Re-attach each section to different spots.
2. Plantlets on leaf tips
Sometimes small baby ferns grow on older leaves:
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Let them develop until they have a few mini leaves and roots.
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Gently remove the plantlets and tie them to wood or rocks.
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Over time they become full-sized plants.
This slow propagation creates a very natural look, as if the fern is slowly spreading over the hardscape.
Common Problems and What I Do
1. Black or transparent leaves
Often happens when:
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The plant is newly added and adapting
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The rhizome has been buried
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Water parameters changed too quickly
My approach:
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Check that the rhizome is not buried
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Trim away badly damaged leaves
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Keep the tank stable and avoid big parameter swings
New, healthier leaves usually grow from the rhizome once conditions are stable.
2. Algae on leaves
Java fern’s broad leaves can easily catch algae if:
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Light is strong
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Nutrients are unbalanced
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Flow is too low around the plant
What I do:
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Slightly reduce light duration (for example, from 8 hours down to 7)
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Improve circulation gently around the fern, not blasting it
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Avoid overfeeding the tank
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Let shrimp and snails gently graze the leaves
Old leaves covered in stubborn algae can simply be trimmed off. The rhizome will send out new clean leaves.
3. Slow growth
Slow is normal for Java fern, but if it feels too slow:
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Check that it’s getting at least some light (not fully shaded all the time)
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Make sure there is some fertilization in the water column
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Confirm that there are no extreme water quality issues
In my tanks, I treat Java fern more like a long-term background friend than a “fast result” plant.
Why I Like Java Fern in Shrimp Aquariums
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The wide leaves give shrimp resting spots and grazing surfaces.
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The roots and rhizome create micro hiding spaces for shrimplets.
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It doesn’t demand CO₂ or strong light, so the overall setup can stay calm and stable.
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Because it’s attached to hardscape, it’s easy to move during rescapes without disturbing the substrate.
It’s not the most dramatic plant, but it’s one of those pieces that make the whole aquascape feel more natural over time.
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