Phyllanthus fluitans is one of those plants that quietly steals the show.
From far away it just looks like a simple floater. But under the right light and conditions, its leaves turn deep red, the roots hang down like soft threads, and the whole surface feels warm and cosy—almost like autumn on top of your aquarium.
In this post, I’ll share how I keep Phyllanthus fluitans healthy in a home tank, using normal tap water, basic fertilizers, and equipment that hobbyists in Indonesia/Malaysia can actually find.
Quick overview
Common name: Red floating plant
Scientific name: Phyllanthus fluitans
Type: Floating plant (no need to plant in substrate)
Position: Surface
Growth speed: Medium–fast (can become dense if happy)
Difficulty: Easy–moderate
Good for: Shrimp tanks, blackwater, low-flow community tanks, “natural” style aquariums
Why keep Phyllanthus fluitans?
A few reasons I like it:
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It softens the look of the surface and blocks harsh light.
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The dangling roots give fry, shrimp, and shy fish a safe place to hide.
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The red color adds contrast above green stem plants or moss.
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It reacts clearly to conditions: pale/green when unhappy, rich red and compact when happy.
It’s also a good “indicator plant” for you: if it starts melting, turning pale, or losing roots, it’s a sign that something in your aquarium balance is off.
Basic requirements
You don’t need RO water or fancy gear, but this plant does have preferences.
1. Light
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Minimum: Low–medium light – it will stay more green and grow flatter.
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Best: Medium–high light – this is when you start seeing strong red tones.
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Too much: Under very strong light with no nutrients, the leaves can burn or become dry-looking at the edges.
If you use LED aquarium lights from Tokopedia/Shopee, usually:
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“Budget white + RGB” lights: place Phyllanthus in areas with slightly stronger light for color.
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Strong aquascape lights: give it some shade patches so it doesn’t dry out at the surface.
2. Water parameters
This plant is quite forgiving:
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Temperature: ~22–28 °C
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pH: Around 6.0–7.5
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Hardness: Soft to medium-hard is usually fine. It can live in typical tap water in Indonesia/Malaysia.
If your tap water is on the harder side, it can still grow, but the red color may be less intense compared to softer, slightly acidic water.
3. Flow and surface movement
Floating plants hate rough surface agitation.
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Good: Gentle surface movement, soft ripple, low flow.
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Bad: Strong splashes from filter outflow, powerheads pointed at the surface, air stone popping directly under them.
If your filter is too strong:
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Turn the outlet towards the glass so the current is calmer.
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Use a lily pipe or spray bar aimed slightly downwards.
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Create a “quiet corner” with a floating ring, airline tubing circle, or DIY frame to keep them in a calm area.
How to get the red color
The red tone is a combination of:
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Light intensity – stronger light = more red pigment.
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Nutrients – especially enough iron (Fe) and overall balanced fertilization.
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General health – stressed plants often stay pale or weak.
Simple approach:
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Use a normal all-in-one liquid fertilizer (many local brands available on Tokopedia/Shopee).
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If your tank is heavily planted and light is strong, adding a small weekly dose of iron supplement can help.
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Avoid “starving” the tank: floating plants compete with rooted plants, so if nutrients are too low, something will suffer.
Signs it’s happy:
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Leaves become thicker, slightly cupped, and more compact.
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Color deepens from light green to reddish, sometimes with darker edges.
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Roots grow longer and fuller.
Planting (floating) and placement
Phyllanthus fluitans doesn’t go into the substrate.
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Just place a few sprigs on the surface and let them adjust.
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Make sure they aren’t stuck under the filter outlet or pressed against the glass.
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Avoid covering the entire surface on day one; start with a small patch and let it spread.
If you have a strong light, you can:
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Let them cover only 30–50% of the surface.
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Leave open areas for good gas exchange and to let light reach plants below.
Maintenance: trimming and control
If Phyllanthus is happy, it can slowly take over the surface.
What I usually do:
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Once a week: Scoop out extra clusters with a net or your hand.
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Check underneath: Make sure light still reaches mid-ground and foreground plants.
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Remove weak parts: Yellowing, transparent, or melting leaves can be removed to stop them from rotting in the tank.
Don’t be afraid to throw away the excess. In a balanced aquarium, it will grow back.
Propagation
Propagation is simple:
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Each cluster can naturally split into multiple new pieces.
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When you scoop and move them, you’re already “propagating.”
If you want to share with friends:
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Gently collect a handful of healthy clusters with long roots.
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Place them in a plastic container with tank water and some air gap.
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Keep them moist during transport (never completely dry).
Common problems and how to fix them
1. Leaves turning pale or yellow
Possible causes:
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Not enough nutrients (especially nitrogen, iron).
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Light too weak.
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Plant still adapting to new water.
What to do:
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Start regular, small-dose liquid fertilizing (follow bottle, or even lower).
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Increase light duration a bit (for example from 6 to 7–8 hours), but slowly.
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Give it 1–2 weeks to adjust before making big changes.
2. Melting or rotting from the center
Possible causes:
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Strong splashing on the leaves.
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Sudden change in water parameters.
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Very high temperature and very dry air gap above the water surface.
What to do:
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Calm the surface, redirect flow.
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Remove badly damaged pieces so they don’t foul the water.
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Check temperature and make sure the tank lid still allows some humidity at the top.
3. Taking over the entire surface
Good sign, but:
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Too much coverage can lower oxygen at night for fish.
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Plants below may suffer from low light.
What to do:
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Manually thin them out.
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Decide which area you want “open” and keep that space clear each week.
Tank mates and compatibility
Good with:
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Shrimp (Neocaridina, Caridina in appropriate water)
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Small peaceful fish like rasbora, small tetras, ember tetra
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Labyrinth fish (Betta, gourami) – they enjoy the shaded surface
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Fry – roots offer a safe hiding place
Not ideal with:
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Goldfish – they will eat or destroy it quickly.
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Very active surface fish that keep disturbing the plant.
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Tanks with very strong flow or wave makers pointed at the surface.
If you keep Bettas, this plant can be a perfect “roof” to make them feel safe, as long as you don’t cover the entire surface and block their access to air.
Buying tips
When you order Phyllanthus fluitans online:
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Choose sellers with recent reviews showing fresh, red/green healthy plants.
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Look closely at photos: leaves should look round, not full of holes or rot.
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When it arrives:
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Rinse gently in clean water.
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Remove obviously dead or brown parts.
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Float in a low-flow, calm area to let it recover.
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Don’t be surprised if the plant looks more green at first. Many farms grow it under different conditions. Once it settles into your aquarium and light, the color will slowly adjust.
Final thoughts
Phyllanthus fluitans is a simple way to add a “second layer” to your aquascape: not just hardscape and rooted plants, but also a living roof at the surface.
You don’t need perfect water, fancy fertilizers, or CO₂ to enjoy it. With:
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Gentle flow
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Decent light
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Basic regular fertilizing
…it usually rewards you with soft red patches and beautiful roots that your shrimp and fish will love to explore.
If you already keep floating plants like Salvinia or frogbit, this can be your next “upgrade” if you want something with more color and character on top of your tank.
If you want to go deeper into nutrients, especially for supporting red plants like this one, you can read a beginner-friendly guide to iron and potassium dosing for planted aquariums and use it as your base routine.
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